A wine country like Priorat or Montsant is its history, culture, climate, close social relationships, natural and human architecture, and the quiet friendliness of people that often seem to know more about wine than the internationally recognized wine experts... Priorat DOQ, the most sought-after winesSlate covered hills, the tiniest vine plants, impossible steep vineyards, a soil poor in minerals, what do you make of all that? For a friendly old lady I met under an imposing centuries-old olive tree in Vilella Alta, the answer is cut and clear: the best wine in the world.
Since Carthusian monks founded the Monastery of Scala Dei in the twelfth century, growers often plant grapevines in the middle of slate rocks of volcanic origin. In such soil, the roots have to go to extraordinary depths through the slate cracks in search of water. The battle for survival of grapevines and the quasi-obsession of Priorat wine makers for quality translate into wines that are persistent, dense, bright, and a direct expression of the mineral terroir of this wine country. Grenache are the most characteristic wine grapes of the Priorat wine country, but wine makers also blend other interesting grape varieties based on wine types and primary sensorial intention. The authorized wine grapes for red wines are Carignan, Grenache, Lledoner Pelut (Grey Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah (Shiraz). The permitted grape varieties for white wines are Grenache Blanc, Macabeu (Viura), Pedro Ximenez, Chenin Blanc, and Viognier. Montsant DO, young and spiritedThe Montsant appellation was born in 2001 after it became independent of the old Falset subzone of the Tarragona appellation. It is named after the Montsant powerful mountain range that dominates the vineyard landscape of this wine country. Most of the sixteen municipalities of this wine country belong to the Priorat county and virtually encircle the Priorat appellation. Montsant vineyards are mostly planted on granitic and slate-like brown terraces with poor mineral content and lots of sun. Such conditions allow for the development of wines with personality and gentle intensity. The Catalan Montsant wine country boasts an ancestral wine making tradition and an entrepreneurial fire that is responsible for exporting seventy per cent of their wine production, and doubling its wineries in only five years.
I'll never forget that during my last visit to the Montsant wine country Jaume, the owner of a small wine shop in Marçà, was closing his shop. When he saw us at the window, he opened it again at eight thirty in the evening to let us taste Montsant wines and chat about wine with us. He embodies this wine country's hospitality, and the quiet friendliness of prioratencs that I mentioned above. No wonder wine enthusiasts that come from far away on wine tours or Mediterranean food culinary tours have the greatest of times. Montsant, which means Sacred Mountain, grows mostly Carignan and Grenache for its very mineralized red wines capable of continuing the ageing process at home if wished. As for white wine grapes, they grow almost exclusively Grenache Blanc and Macabeu. The authorized wine grapes for red wines are Carignan, Grenache Noir, Lledoner Pelut (Grey Grenache), Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo), Monestrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Picapoll Negre (Folle Noir), Syrah (Shiraz). Permitted grape varieties for white wines are Grenache Blanc, Macabeu (Viura), Chardonnay, Parellada, Moscatell de gra petit (Small berry Muscat), Pansal i Trobat (Tourbat). Wine grapes alone are not enoughEach wine country was smart enough to reinvent itself to respond properly to the present international demand for quality wines with a well-defined local personality. Not so many years ago, they were two unknown wine countries outside the Catalonia border, now they export wines to different continents. Priorat and Montsant wines are great wines among the greatest.
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